This is the bench every partner is measured on. The wording of each discipline comes from how the established houses and trade schools define the same work; the acceptance criteria are the numbers we actually check. The standard is written down so that it can be argued with — and so that two workshops in two countries can be held to the same line.呢個就係量度每一位合夥人嘅工作檯。每一門學科嘅講法，參照老牌工坊同行業學校點樣定義同一批工夫；驗收標準就係我們真正會查嘅數字。標準寫出嚟，係為咗可以被質疑——亦係為咗令兩個國家嘅兩間工坊，守住同一條線。
Reading a phone model into a flat pattern, then a three-dimensional one: working drawings, a paper pattern, a card mock-up, and a sample that is measured before anything is cut. Tolerance on a phone case is tight — the case has to clear the camera bump, the buttons and the charging port, and still grip.由手機型號讀出平面版型，再讀成立體：工作圖、紙樣、卡紙試模，然後一件量度過才落刀嘅樣品。手機殼公差很窄——要避開鏡頭凸台、按鍵同充電口，同時要夾得住。
What good looks like:合格係點： Pattern within ±0.5 mm of the working drawing; a mock-up that assembles dry before any leather is cut; every new model proven on a real handset, not a drawing.版型與工作圖相差 ±0.5 毫米以內；落皮之前先用卡紙乾裝一次；每個新型號都要用真機試過，唔可以靠圖。
Laying the pattern on the hide so the grain runs the right way, the stretch goes where the case flexes, and the cleanest part of the hide lands on the most visible panel. Cut by hand knife, by die and press, or by a travelling head cutter.把版型排在皮上：粒面方向要對、伸縮要落在殼會屈曲嘅位置、最靚嘅一塊皮要留給最顯眼嘅面板。可以用手刀、模具壓切，或者走刀機。
What good looks like:合格係點： Cut edges square to the surface with no wedge; no cut closer than 15 mm to the hide edge; the usable area of a hide actually measured, not assumed.切口與皮面垂直、唔起斜；離皮邊最少 15 毫米唔落刀；一張皮實際可用面積要量出來，唔可以估。
Thinning leather where it will be folded, lapped or stitched over, so the seam does not become a ridge. A skiving knife or a bell-knife splitting machine takes the flesh side down; the grain side is left alone.喺會摺、會疊、會縫過嘅位置把皮削薄，令縫位唔會腫起一條脊。用削皮刀或者鐘形分層機削肉面，粒面唔郁。
What good looks like:合格係點： Fold edges down to roughly 0.4–0.6 mm and even along the length; no nicks through the grain; the transition sanded so it cannot be felt through the lining.摺邊削到約 0.4–0.6 毫米，而且全程均勻；唔可以削穿粒面；過渡位要磨順，隔住內襯都摸唔到。
Knowing what a hide is before it is cut: which tannage (vegetable, chrome, wet-white), which part of the hide (back, belly, shoulder), what the grain will do over a year, and how the batch will age together. Vegetable-tanned full-grain is the firm, patina-forming material the Tuscany district is built on.落刀之前要知張皮係乜：邊種鞣法（植鞣、鉻鞣、白濕皮）、邊個部位（背、腹、肩）、粒面一年之後會變成點，以及同一批皮會唔會一齊變色。植鞣頭層皮硬淨、會養成，就係托斯卡納皮革區嘅根基。
What good looks like:合格係點： Hides graded and recorded by batch before use; defects marked, not cut around silently; a leather case's panels cut from the same hide so the patina matches.皮要分級、要記錄批次才用；有瑕疵要標出來，唔可以靜靜地避開；同一個殼嘅面板要出自同一張皮，包漿才會一致。
Building the inside of the case: a lining that will not stretch, a reinforcement where the case takes its load, and an interlining that keeps the shell from going floppy in a pocket.做殼嘅裡面：一層唔會拉長嘅內襯、落喺受力位嘅補強，同一層令殼唔會放袋就軟嘅夾層。
What good looks like:合格係點： Lining cut 1:1 with the outer panel and stitched in, not glued floating; reinforcement positioned where the case flexes, not where it is convenient.內襯要同外板 1:1 裁、要縫實，唔可以浮起黏住；補強要落喺殼真正屈曲嘅位置，唔係落喺方便嘅位置。
Joining leather to leather, or leather to a structural frame, without the glue line showing through the grain and without the bond failing at the edge. Contact cement, water-based adhesive or heat-activated film, applied evenly and pressed, not squeezed.把皮貼皮，或者把皮貼上結構內框：膠線唔可以透出粒面，邊位亦唔可以分層。用接觸膠、水性膠或熱熔膜，塗勻、加壓，唔可以夾硬擠。
What good looks like:合格係點： A glue line that does not telegraph through the grain under raking light; over-spray cleaned before it cures; edges still clean after a year of temperature cycling.斜光之下，膠線唔可以透出粒面；溢出嘅膠要在乾之前清走；經過一年溫度變化，邊位仍然乾淨。
Two needles, one waxed thread, each stitch locked by hand through holes made with a pricking iron or an awl. This is the stitch Hermès' leather workshop is described by, and it is the reason a hand-made seam cannot unravel the way a machine lockstitch can.兩支針、一條上蠟線，每個針步都靠人手在菱斬或錐打嘅孔上鎖死。愛馬仕皮具工坊之所以為人所知，就係呢一手縫法；亦係手縫唔會像機器鎖縫一樣整條散開嘅原因。
What good looks like:合格係點： 8–10 stitches per inch for a bag-weight seam, thread matched to the leather weight, uniform pitch and tension front and back, back-stitched two stitches at every run end.袋裝厚度嘅縫約每英寸 8–10 針；線要配皮厚；正反兩面針距同張力要一致；每一段收針要回針兩針。
The whole sequence, in order: trim flush, bevel the arris, sand through the grits, slick or burnish with gum and friction, then seal or edge-paint if the design calls for it. It is the slowest part of the piece and the first thing a customer's thumb finds.完整一輪，次序唔可以亂：修齊、削角、逐級砂紙磨、上膠水或蠟用摩擦燙邊，需要就上邊油封邊。呢一步係整件作品最慢嘅部分，亦係客人手指第一時間摸到嘅位。
What good looks like:合格係點： Edge rounded to roughly 1.5–2.0 mm radius and uniform along the whole run; colour sealed so it does not bleed onto the grain; no sanding scratches left at the transition.邊位圓角約 1.5–2.0 毫米、全程一致；封色唔可以滲上粒面；過渡位唔可以留低砂紙痕。
The fibre side of the range: cutting aramid fabric on the bias or warp, stacking plies in a stated direction, wetting out with resin or laying pre-preg, then curing under heat and pressure in a matched mould so the shell takes the handset's shape and the magnet array sits true.纖維線嘅部分：按斜紋或經向裁芳綸布、按指定方向疊層、用樹脂浸透或疊預浸料，再在對模中加熱加壓固化，令殼體食住手機形狀，磁石陣列亦要擺正。
What good looks like:合格係點： Ply count and fibre direction recorded per part; resin fully wet out with no dry patches or voids; cured thickness held to the drawing; magnet ring checked for alignment and polarity before assembly.每一件都要記錄層數同纖維方向；樹脂要浸透，唔可以有乾斑或空洞；固化後厚度要對圖；磁環組裝前要驗位置同極性。
Setting the last parts: magnets, plates, buttons, the frame, the camera bezel. Position, depth and alignment all decide whether the case works or merely looks like it works.裝最後嘅零件：磁石、金屬片、按鍵、內框、鏡頭圈。位置、深度同對齊，決定個殼係真係用得，抑或只係睇落似得。
What good looks like:合格係點： Magnets flush and aligned to the coil so charging is not throttled; every button working through the leather without shimming; no hardware proud enough to scratch a table.磁石要平、要對正線圈，唔可以令充電降速；每個按鍵隔住皮都要按得順；五金唔可以凸出到刮花桌面。
The gate between the bench and the box: dimensional check against the drawing, stitch pitch and pull test, edge and lining inspection, magnet function, and a written record of who made it and from which batch.工作檯同包裝盒之間嗰道閘：對圖量尺寸、驗針距同拉力、檢查邊位同內襯、試磁吸功能，並記錄低係邊個做、用咗邊一批料。
What good looks like:合格係點： First-pass yield at or above 95%, rising to 97% before a partner is scaled up; sample inspection to a stated AQL; no piece shipped unrecorded.一次通過率要 95% 或以上，擴大規模前要升至 97%；抽檢要按寫明嘅 AQL；冇一件貨可以無記錄出廠。
Keeping the bench able to hold the standard: sharpening knives and irons, dressing edge tools, setting and servicing the sewing, splitting and pressing machines, and controlling the workshop's own humidity so leather does not mould and glue does not fail.令張工作檯守得住標準：磨刀同菱斬、修整邊位工具、校準同保養縫紉機、分層機同壓合機，並控制工坊本身嘅濕度，令皮唔發霉、膠唔失效。
What good looks like:合格係點： A written maintenance log per machine; tool sharpening on a schedule rather than when it tears; workshop held at a stable humidity, with leather stored off the floor.每部機有保養紀錄；工具按時間表磨，唔係等到撕皮才磨；工坊濕度要穩，皮要離地存放。
A written standard is worth nothing without a gate. These are the four.寫出嚟嘅標準，冇一道閘就等於冇。以下係四道。
First-pass yield at or above 95%, rising to 97% before a partner is scaled up. Cross-workshop variation on the same model is held to 8%, measured on thickness, weight and stitch density. A piece that fails does not ship, and the workshop is still paid for the operations it did correctly.一次通過率要 95% 或以上，擴大規模前要升至 97%。同一款跨工坊嘅差異控制在 8% 以內，以厚度、重量同縫線密度量度。唔達標嘅件唔出貨，但工坊做對嘅工序照樣收錢。
Ten to twenty finished pieces seen in person including the failures, one paid trial piece against a written brief with stated tolerances, two reachable references, and a recorded maintenance log for every machine on the bench.十至二十件成品當面睇（連失敗品）、按寫明公差嘅書面要求做一件有償試作、兩位真係搵得到嘅推薦人，以及工作檯上每部機都有保養紀錄。
Every core craftsman is expected to work in at least two countries, and technique is recorded on video rather than written down, because a saddle stitch and a burnished edge cannot be explained in a document. A cross-workshop committee, not a shop owner, sets the acceptance number.每位核心工匠都要至少在兩個國家做過；技法用影片記錄，唔係寫落文件——馬鞍縫同燙邊，用文字講唔清。驗收數字由跨工坊委員會定，唔係由老闆定。
Where a country has no leather-goods tradition, no discipline is claimed for it, and the partner is listed as a country agent rather than a craftsman. Calling a distributor a craftsman would be the easiest lie on the site, and it is the one we have refused to tell.當地冇皮具傳統嘅國家，我們唔會為佢聲稱任何學科，並把該位合夥人列為「各國代理」而唔係工匠。把分銷商叫做工匠，會係全站最容易講嘅一句大話，而呢一句我們拒絕講。